After a very good night’s sleep, we woke to find the boat had left the dock and was now cruising down the Moselle towards our first stop. I settled down to write my blog, but was stymied by the lack of WiFi and poor mobile signal. Writing offline, I recorded my thoughts to upload later. By 08:30, we were passing through the first lock on the trip. (The Moselle drops 150 metres from where it rises in France to where it meets the Rhine, so there are several locks which manage the flow of water.)
Mid-morning, we had a safety briefing from the Captain. As part of the briefing, he explained that we would cover 348km during the trip, and pass through 18 locks all told. After the Captain had finished, the Cruise Director, Jean, took over and gave a briefing on our first port, Cochem. It’s only a small town with a population of 5000 people and is dominated by its castle. During the war, there was a concentration camp housing
13000 prisoners working for Bosch, making pumps for tanks. More about Cochem, later.
We spent the rest of the morning up on the sun deck, drifting along the river passing some beautiful scenery, and chocolate box villages.
We docked in Cochem at midday. We grabbed a light salad for lunch and prepared for the afternoon’s excursion.
We were split into two groups with our QuietVox boxes set to different channels for each group.
Our guide was a very chatty lady of senior years who took us along the riverbank and across the bridge to the main part of town. All the while, she was giving us a running commentary, pointing out places of interest and explaining the history. She took us through the old market squares, passing several of the town gates. Here and there, there were marks on the walls showing how high some of the historic floods have been. Some of these reached the second floor of the houses and shops.
In the Church of St Martin, she pointed out the stained glass windows which had been done in the style of Chagall, and were really quite astounding. (I was a little surprised to hear that the population of Cochem is predominantly Roman Catholic).
Leaving the church, we made a few more stops in the higher part of the town before taking a minibus up to the Reichsburg Castle. The castle was built around 1000AD for the Counts of Palatine. It remained the seat of the Counts until 1689, when it was destroyed by the French and remained a ruin until the 1800s, when the Berlin counsellor of commerce, Jakob Ravene, bought it for the equivalent of 1000Euros and set about restoring it to its former glory (based on historical prints and drawings).
The castle is now owned and maintained by the city of Cochem and is available for concerts, wine festivals, and weddings, as well as being open to tourists. It is said that the castle was the inspiration for the castle in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast.
After the tour, we returned to the boat for a drink and then set off again along the riverbank to one of the wineries for a wine tasting. This was led by an enthusiastic chap who explained about the various grapes and the difference between those grown on the flat, as opposed to those which are grown on the steep slate hillsides. He led us through four tastings, each one of a higher quality than the one before. It was very interesting, but as I am not a great lover of white wine, it was more of an intellectual exercise than anything else.
Back on board, we had the formal Welcome Reception, where we were introduced to the heads of department. Then, we went down for dinner. Di had a scrumptious-looking short rib of beef, while I had a lentil curry with Jasmine rice. Having eaten, we went up to the lounge where the evening’s entertainment was about to begin. A young American violinist, married to a German, took to the stage and kept us riveted for about 40 minutes. Hearing some classics, some pop music, and even Led Zeppelin’s Kashmir performed with such vigour on the violin was riveting. I think it was one of the best evenings’ entertainment we have had on any of our cruises.
That was it. It had been a long day. Time for bed, said Zebedee.