Some things need to seen

There are some things that you have to take the time to see. The Silver Vixen had wandered off with the Coventry Hobbit a few days ago to see the local elephants, but the Gorse Fox was diving and missed out. As the afternoon wore on we decided that we should say hello to these magnificent beasts.

Cuddly may not quite be an appropriate word... but mighty cute.

Getting stuff done.

Firstly it is clear that it is now safe to come back to to the UK. Sense has prevailed and an interesting alliance formed. Better still the forces of evil have been banished from Government.

There was stuff to get get done. The tyre needed fixing, some shopping was needed, and the Gorse Fox had to settle up his bill with the awesome Scubafish Divers. We met up with Cousteau-cub and Coventry Hobbit and got directions to a man who does tyres. Directions were all very fine, but we missed it and ended up on the way in toward Sala Dan where we found an outfit that we approached. He took one look at the tyre and said he’s fix it.

Gorse Fox and the Coventry Hobbit watched in amazement as he located the nail that had caused the problem and pulled it out. Then he plunged an awl into the hole. Meanwhile he fed a rubbery/plasticy material through the eye of another awl and coated the area of the tyre and the strip of “stuff” in some form of gelatinous compound. The first awl was removed, the new awl with the “stuff” was plunged into the hole. and then withdrawn, leaving the stuff to plug the hole. A few seconds later the tyre was re-inflated and back on the truck. This whole process had taken no more than 5 minutes. Gorse Fox compared this to the UK where such a process would probably have meant a new tyre and cost £150 (plus). Here – 200Baht. (yes, £4).

Shaking his head in ongoing amazement and still speechless we headed north to downtown Sala Dan. Silver Vixen and Cousteau-cub wanted shopping. Coventry Hobbit and Gorse Fox wanted beer. It seemed a perfect accommodation – a shop next to a bar. Eventually we had to move on as C-H was on duty in the shop during the afternoon. Dropping him at Narima, we carried on down to Kantiang Bay to provide a little computing consultancy to Scubafish…. and settle up the bill for the diving and the instruction.

Then it was back to Narima for a swim and to decide on the plan for the evening.

Summary

Ok – a summary.

Tyre flat – dealt with and described.

Politics – no further comment.

But what about the rest of the day?

The daywas spent at Narima with Cousteau-cub who was manning the shop. The weather was really hot and very humid. This meant dropping into the pool to cool off. Once in, however, it was very difficult to get back out so we just stayed there, drifting back and forth.

Eventually it was time for the shop to close for lunch so we dried off – having checked for messages or emails then C-c grabbed Bruno and we walked to the next bay. This, again proved too enticing, so we put on fins and masks and crashed back into the surf. (Note to self – the use of shin and calf as a break when crossing underwater rocks is not advised).

The dog was playful and enjoyed his romp in the surf but once back on the sand he rolled and twisted until covered in sand. Bruno was taken back to the house and we returned to Narima – re-opened the shop and dropped back into the pool.

The afternoon sped by and as we prepared for the sunset it became clear that it was not clear. In fact the horizon was obscured and lightning was beginning to flash around. As a result we were witness to an hour’s spectacular light show as the lightning flashed across the heavens and crashed down across Koh Haa and Koh Rock. No sunset photo tonight, but GF hopes that theses will do instead.

Flash

It has become very still. Lightning is flashing across the sky and thunder is rattling the heavens. May well be some rain on the way!

The rancid taste of politics

Reading the overnight news, the rancid taste of politics rises in the back of the throat as the sleazy side of Labour reveals that it has swung into action to to try and cling on to power despite having over 60% of the population vote against them. In moves that would make Mugabe proud, GoBro says he’ll stand aside and “pretty please” will someone be their friend. “Pretty please” will someone team up with Mandelson (the Princess of Darkness) and the Soupmeister and allow them to continue the great experiment – destruction of our nation.

Flat

As you near the end of a holiday things can feel a bit flat. This was taken to extremes this morning when we arrived at the truck and found the rear tyre was completely devoid of air. It was hot and GF did not relish the task of changing said tyre. He raided the cab, but no tools were evident so he opened the manual. Whilst the diagrams were informative to an extent, the text was in Thai, severely limiting understanding.

The Gose Fox went to reception and they called a man. The man came, looked at the problem and pointed out where the spare was. This was the one fact the GF already knew! Two more chaps turned up and assessed the situation. Got down on the ground and got to work. A few minutes later amidst a growing pool of perspiration the job was done, the new tyre in place, and the dead tyre in the pickup. GF parted with some coin of the realm and the men thanked him and offered any further help that may be needed.

Recovery time

The Gorse Fox crashed out soon after 2130 and slept the sleep known as scuba-sleep until 0800. Even then, when he awoke, he felt slightly disorientated and seemed to have developed some catarrh overnight. (He always wanted to be musical).

By this time Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit would already be aboard their boat heading south for a day’s diving at Hin Daeng. GF had been invited along (as a qualified Open Water Diver – Scuba Fox) , but is glad that he declined… in the circumstances. Today needed to be a quiet day.

The Silver Vixen and GF headed down to breakfast. An early haze was lifting and it promised to be a blistering day. Breakfast was the usual leisurely fare. Trays full of fruit, of breads, of nibbles, and a choice of various main dishes. The staff are always very attentive and very friendly and the outlook from the veranda across the landscaped grounds is very relaxing – with a continual tinkling of running water as the water cascades down between the different levels.

The morning was spent dealing with post cards and listening to our books on the balcony of the room. Then we decided (like Mad Dogs and Englishmen) to go out in the mid-day sun. Silver Vixen had seen a store she wanted to look around and whilst it was not far, in this heat it was far more sensible to drive there than walk. The trip was not as successful as planned but some trinkets were acquired in exchange for small amounts of money. Leaving there we headed up the mountain and stopped at the viewpoint Khao Yai overlooking the eastern side of the Island. This is where we had stopped a couple of days back after our visit of Lanta Old Town. Again we were the only patrons and sat there admiring the view, drinking lassis and sharing a club sandwich. It was hot – really hot and anything that did not involve air conditioning seemed daft. So, understanding the basic fact that there are only 2 roads on the island and we had driven to end of one of them – we decided to complete the set. Heading on south, past Lanta Old Town we made our way past several plantations and small settlements as the road hugged the coast. The views opened up across the bay here and there – but to be honest this was not the most exciting drive of the Gorse Fox’s life. At the end of the road we turned and headed back. Arriving back at the resort we had only covered 24KMs since leaving the viewpoint. (It is not a big island).

As the sun starts its inexorable descent into the sea alongside Koh Phi Phi we prepare for the evening meal. We decided that with the long day C-c and C-H will have had, we would leave them alone tonight, so the biggest decision we have to make is what to select from the menu and in what restaurant.

(Yes, another tropical sunset photo!)

Another Gratuitous Sunset

Another fabulous sunset as seen from our room.

Scuba

0630 saw the Gorse Fox up and about and preparing for another adventure. The Silver Vixen opted to stay in bed and enjoy a cup of tea and her book. The Gorse Fox bade adieu and headed south to Kantiang Bay where he met up with Cousteau-cub.

Today was to be the second pair of dives needed for his “Open Water” diver’s qualification. A throng assembled. He would like to have thought they were well-wishers, but actually they were just other divers lost in their own thoughts preparing for today’s adventure.

The speed boat was pretty full, with 16 divers, the boat crew, and five or six instructors. The destination, as before, was Koh Haa. This is fine because it’s only 35 minutes to and from the site. As before, the Gorse Fox had personal attention fro Cousteau-cub and this time there was a student doing his Dive Master who was along to observe. Stepping off the back of the boat into the blue saw the Gorse Fox bob back to the surface where he had to show how he could get into his scuba gear in the water. With all the grace of a walrus (mountaineering) he managed to push the gear down and slip his arms through the correct opening and do up all of the fastenings. Then he had to put on his weight belt in the water. This involves holding the belt in one hand whilst rolling such that the belt warps itself across your back and you do it up whilst face-down. Again this was not an elegant motion, but again it was completed without fuss or grace.

Descending to the bottom GF managed to take on sea-water. This was neither pleasant, nor intentional – and it certainly made the next few minutes a little unpleasant. He had to practise a controlled swimming ascent (CESA) that went without incident, and then kneeling on the bottom had to remove his scuba equipment then put it back on, and finally remove his weight-belt and put it back on. Skills demonstrated it was time to enjoy the dive and we headed off round the coral surrounding one of the limestone karst stacks. This time the Gorse Fox was allowed to go deeper and stay under for longer. It was a magical world with angel fish, clown fish, barracuda, octopus, eels, sea snakes, box fish and so forth. The corals themselves were a fantastic mixture of hues – reds, russets, yellow, vibrant blues, whites and so forth. Unfortunately the magical mystery tour had to come to an end and we recovered the surface, got back on the boat and rested until the next dive.

Again curry and rice was the order of the day – creating a good ballast and store of carbohydrate for the body to call on. The heat was stifling and the air was so thick you could almost cut it. The thought of another dive was an exciting relief and meant that we would soon be back breathing dry, cool air, albeit in 31c water.

We rested nearly 90 minutes between the dives and then began the second adventure. This saw Cousteau-cub, the Gorse Fox and the trainee Dive Master drop over the side and swim to the wall of the island. Then, working with the surge we dropped below the surface and entered the peace of the underwater realm. GF had the last of his skills to exhibit – with a full mask removal and replacement and then underwater navigation with a compass. Done, we then headed round the island to huge cavern below the surface. Entering we marvelled at the way the various fish were silhouetted against the light behind us, and we looked for some of the denizens that C-c had expected to find. This time we were not so lucky and they had obviously gone off for morning coffee. We swam from one cavern into another even larger one, known as the Cathedral. We had discussed surfacing in there, but decided the surge was too strong so moved on through another passageway to exit back out into the mottled sunlight below the waves.

After about 45 minutes we headed back to the surface, climbed aboard the boat and headed back to land. With the exception of the final exam – GF had completed his course… and was feeling smug.

Gratuitous Sunset Photo

As the sun set on another blistering day (boat captain said it was 41C) we showered and prepared to head the few kilometres south to meet up with Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit for dinner.

Islands

Saturday (it is Saturday, isn’t it?) saw the alarm set early. Cousteau-cub would be waiting in the car park at 07:20 and we would be heading nort to Sala Dan. As things worked out, C-c was late. Unlike her. When she turned up, however, the reason became clear. She had caught her long skirt in her motorcycle chain and needed help from some passing (very amused) Thai people to free her but ripping her skirt with an old razor blade.

Anyway, crisis averted we headed north in the car to Sala Dan (about 12 kms) and parked by the ferry pier. Here we would pick up the passenger ferry to take us across to Ko Phi Phi, so long her home.

We were early for the ferry (the car being so much quicker than the motorbikes on which the journey was based). This gave us time to have a look around the harbour-side and see all of the houses on stilts jockeying for space along the waterfront. We boarded and made ourselves comfortable before the inevitable last minute rush.

The crossing to Phi Phi takes about an hour and fortunately the sea was like a mill pond (without the swans and haywains). The boat moored briefly alongside another ferry to transfer the Phuket-bound passengers, then continued in to the main pier for the island. This came as a bit of a surprise. It was far more commercialised that the Gorse Fox had expected and has obviously become a victim of its own popularity. As we disembarked and headed along the pier we were accosted by people offering taxi-boat trips, boat trips, dives, accommodation, and goodness knows what else. Following Cousteau-cub we strode straight through the middle of the island and out the other side into the bay where she had been based.

This was like walking through a stargate from the chaos of the pier and the shops and stalls to the tranquillity of the bay. The white talcum-like sand was unmarked as we strolled along the water-line to the corner of the beach where C-c’s friend Mel, husband Ben and daughter lived in a splendid bar called Sunflower.  Ben lost his first wife and children in the tsunami – and indeed 18 members of his family.
So much was lost in 7 minutes and he said it is his duty to rebuild in 7 years.

The Sunflower has all been built using reclaimed flotsam from the tsunami, and even the tables are chunks of old longtails. Very moving.

Being low season, the normal ferry schedules had been changed. As a result we had to catch an 1130 crossing back to Koh Lanta. This limited what we could see, but saying goodbye to Mel and Ben we headed back to the centre of the island and the throng. Stopping to look in a few stalls and pick up some Danish pastries for breakfast it was soon time to catch the ferry for the trip back. It is easy to see what Ko Phi Phi once was, but it has become a victim of its own success and it is easy to see why Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit moved to Koh Lanta.

Old Town

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit had a day where they were not needed in the shop or on a boat. Soon afterr breakfast C-c joined us and we set off on some exploring.

Now first it is important to understand that exploration by car is limited – there are only 2 roads on the island. We decided to take the eastern fork and across the mountain to the east side of the island and to visit Lanta Old Town.  This is the oldest proper settlement on the island (the clue is in the name) and is a charming ribbon settlement of clapboard houses and wooden shops built on stilts over the shoreline. At high tide the waters lap beneath the houses, but we were there at low tide, so only a few of the deeper dwellings bestrode the lapping waves beneath.

The temperature was soaring and the streets were deserted. It reminded the Gorse Fox of the set from a long forgotten western. We strolled along the main street and made the odd stop at shops that sold fabrics or knick-knacks. There was an eerie tranquillity about the place that was quite alluring. The heat, being what it was (just a hair’s breadth below 100F) drove us into a small restaurant perched on stilts out in the bay.

Fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple, and mango juice quenched the thirst as we sat and watched the waters lap the bay and the few clouds progress across the sky. This was a fabulous spot and the views were quite amazing.

Dragging ourselves away we headed back down the main street to where we had left the car. Then pottering back up the mountain we stopped at another restaurant with a view over the whole eastern channel and its islands. Coventry Hobbit was there to meet us and we enjoyed anothr cold drink whilst discussing plans for the afternoon.

There several suggestions, but in the end the plan was to take the road south towards the lighthouse, then head to Kantiang Bay (where the dive shop is) so that Silver Vixen could see it in daylight.

The first part of the journey south was fairly straightforward, but just at the southern end of Kantiang Bay the road peters out. With the exception of a few very short paved stretches, it seemed to be a dirt track for several kilometres. We ventured as far as Klong Jak where we stopped to find out about the elephants bathing habits, to admire the bay, and to take on more fluids.

We debated whether to continue to the lighthouse, but GF was nervous about the impact of the unpaved road on the Silver Vixen so we decided to turn back.

We stopped at the dive shop on the way back – this allowed C-c and the C-H to check on plans for the next few days and the Silver Vixen got a chance to see the Sunday Times’ 9th best beach in the world.

It was hot and time to cool off. We headed back to the resort and spent and hour or so in the pool before showering to get ready for dinner. There was the customary sunset to admire… but we were in a hurry to meet up again and grab something to eat.

We chose a place at random – and this seemed to be where it was all happening. The bar owner was celebrating his birthday. This meant that was psychedelic music from the late 60’s, there was a crowd, and we sat out on the beach like hippies enjoying out food and a cold drink. As we prepared to leave the owner came round offering marijuana cakes – we respectfully declined, so he came back round with some genuine victoria sponge for us a few minutes later. The Gorse Fox suspect the roads will be carnage later tonight!

(You might expect the Gorse Fox to make some comment regarding the election. He is going to limit himself to expressing his despair that so many of his countrymen voted for the continuation of Labour’s destruction of the United Kingdom, its freedoms, its traditions, and its peoples. A better excuse for eugenics he cannot imagine).

Rumours

Rumours swept the dive community yesterday. It appears that there had been a sighting of a rare t-shirt on an anonymous diver, some 30 metres down near an island at the south of Ko Lanta.

The Gorse Fox approached Viki the Lens and sure enough amongst all of the photos shot that day we found the evidence.

It isn’t clear who this is, or which of the world-wide tour dates was the source of the t-shirt, but it is clear that Cardinal Sin and the Bum Notes’ fan base spreads far and wide. Who was this masked stranger? We may never know.

The Gorse Fox was excited by this find. That the popular beat combo’s reputation had spread even to the islands of the Andaman Sea seemed extraordinary. During his dives he kept his eyes peeled. Though diving in a different spot, would this masked stranger turn up? Better than that. As Cousteau-cub helped the Gorse Fox become accustomed to this new and enchanting environment they swam past to more CS&BN fans posing for a photo. One, so incredibly cool that she eschewed the traditional diver’s mask, for sun glasses.

The other, not so cool, but posing nonetheless.

Momentous Events

Thursday started early for the Gorse Fox (actually, very early  as he found that sleep eluded him most of the night). He was up and out of the room before seven and striding purposefully (and with a degree of trepidation) down to the car for a rendezvous with Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit.

Driving here is a bit hit and miss. (OK, that’s a bad turn of phrase). Driving here requires that you keep your wits very much about you as you watch for all sorts of crazy manoeuvres by the riders on the scooters (some, quite literally, children), and their passengers – yes many of the scooter may have three or or four passengers sharing the pillion. GF avoided incident on his drive south, but was pleasantly startled by the sight of a mahout riding a huge bull elephant along the road towards him. Not the sort of obstacle one gets used to on the A259!

First things first. Once GF arrived at the resort he checked the WiFi status so that he could find the scores from last nights game. Delighted that Spurs had beaten ne’er-do-wells of Manchester and achieved Champions League for next season boded well for the day. Administrative details complete, and other divers assembled we were soon on the speed boat heading west towards Ko Haa (5 Islands) where the next stage of GF’s diver training was to take place.

This small group of islands comprises a number of limestone stacks and a small sandy lagoon. It is part of a marine park and protected – a responsibility that “Scubafish” take very seriously.

The Coventry Hobbit completed his briefing of his clutch of divers and they entered the water. GF got the gear on – fins, buoyancy control device, scuba tank, regulator set and mask. Clutching the regulator and mask to his face he stepped off the back of the boat. And so began the next part of the training in the capable hands of Cousteau-cub.

Some 43 minutes later, GF surfaced from the deep. He had seen more exotic fish in these few minutes than he had seen in his life, and without  realising had been over 11 metres below the surface. The anxiety of the pool sessions melted away and the wonder of the sights on offer made the heart soar. Unfortunately, when he surfaced, the ingress of salt water into his smiling mouth had the effect of inducing a coughing fit – but that will remain all that is said of that.

Back on the boat we moved round to the lagoon. It was about 10 on the morning – and that my friends is time for a Massaman Curry. We were resting prior to the second planned dive and need some degree of sustenance. Some ignored the curry and for the whimps option of fruit, but GF decided he needed to have a little more ballast.

The 90 minute stop gave us a chance to let some of the nitrogen disperse, and gave us time to gather strength for the next dive. Some of the others used the time to snorkel across to the beach. GF decided that, at his age, energy was not there to be squandered.

The second dive went much as the first. GF stepped into the blue and Cousteau-cub took him through some exercises to show that he had grasped the theory correctly. Then, we slowly descended and swam slowly around the island. We reached a depth of 12m and remained under water for 54 minutes. As we circumnavigated the limestone stack we saw the fantastic shapes and colours of the coral, the tiny fish that hid among their fronds, squid (and their eggs), a Moses sole, a school of barracuda, clown fish, angel fish, moray eels, sea cucumbers, and as we swam through an overhang the Gorse Fox couldn’t help but marvel that he had had such an opportunity.

The boat headed back for bay from we left. The journey back was quiet as we all seemed lost in our thoughts or were dozing.
Log books needed to be filled in and Vicky, the photographer who had accompanied the dive needed to show us the pictures that she had taken.

GF chilled out for a while with Cousteau-cub before headed back up north to to reclaim the missing Silver Vixen. She had made the most of the peace and quite to explore the resort a bit more, to swim and to start on another book. By mid-afternoon the exertions of the morning had caught up and GF retired to the room for a shower and a snooze.

Missing

Just in case you are missing a sunset photo, the Gorse Fox presents this, taken from his balcony as the sun went down.

(By the way, none of these sunset photos has been enhanced or retouched in any way – this is exactly as they came out of the camera).

It’s a bit Eyrie

Sitting on the balcony the Gorse Fox and Silver Vixen enjoyed the 34C heat whilst remaining shaded. The humidity of yesterday had lifted somewhat and it was quite comfortable watching the world below.

The beach appeared deserted, the only boats were out on the horizon. It would have been easy to believe we were entirely alone.

Gorse Fox’s iPod continued to leak “A Time Traveller’s Guide to the Fourteenth Century” into his consciousness whilst the Silver Vixen listened to “Lollipop Shoes”.

Our eagles returned. The Gorse Fox leapt to his feet and grabbed the camera from inside. Then had to wait for several minutes whilst the lens demisted, having hit the outside air.

His patience was rewarded when, after several photos of blank sky, the eagle swooped past the lens at just the right angle to show off his plumage.

GF is no ornithologist – but appreciates the sheer majesty of this creature as it goes about its daily rituals along with its mate.

We headed down to the beach and strolled along to a bar just south of the hotel. This proved to be a find as we managed to get a couple of drinks for 100Baht… probably a quarter of the price at the pool bar in the hotel. From there we could clearly see our room hugging the side of the cliff behind us. And “no” we don’t have to climb up there to get to get to it. A nice little man in a buggy drives us up the hill whenever we want. (Given that some sections of the road are nearly 45 degrees…. that’s probably just as well in this heat).

After a few photos and a drink we headed back along the rustic beach to the hotel and settled down by the pool. At least we did until the pool itself became so inviting that we dropped into the water for a long relaxing swim.

As the sun moved round and the day drew on we finally packed up to return to our room and get showered and ready for dinner.

Downtime

Cousteau-cub had administrative work to complete and the Coventry Hobbit had 3 dives scheduled – we decided that Wednesday would be quiet. Just as well really when we didn’t even wake up until 0900.

After breakfast we watched in fascination as a large lizard watched from the edge of the fish pools and competed with the fish for scraps being hurled in from the balcony. Must have been a Labour lizard as he was more interested in taking the scraps away from the fish, than actually eating them himself. A small heron-like (Lib-dem) bird came to join the fun but had limited success but evidently was entranced by the success of the Labour lizard’s skill in stealing everything from the fish. Gorse Fox felt there was a subliminal message here- but could not quite put his finger on it.

Back to work (Not !)

Whilst readers in the UK may be struggling to accept that the Bank Holiday is over… for us (with a certain frisson of smugness) it was another day of rest. The diving of yesterday had taken a surprising toll – the Gorse Fox (normally a morning person) had significant trouble stirring himself and getting ready to go down for breakfast.

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit were both out diving on boats with clients during the morning so the Silver Vixen and Gorse Fox decided to eschew the car (well car might be doing it a disservice – its a Mitsubishi Triton, pickup) and stay put on our balcony looking out over the Andaman Sea.

With iPods leaking audio books into our ears we had a very peaceful morning staying out of the sun and melting slowly in the humidity. Showers had been forecast as a possibility – but never amounted to anything on land. The Gorse Fox observed a sea eagle soar past the balcony as it searched for prey. It seemed unaware of our presence a came within a few metres of us – huge reddy-brown wings stretched wide with black pinions. The sun seemed to make the feather almost glow as it searched – its white head and yellow eye-markings guiding it back and forth. Quite mesmerising.

Mid afternoon we headed back to Narima – which makes us feel so welcome that it’s like a home from home (but without having to do the chores). Cousteau-cub was ready to continue Gorse Fox’s tuition. He managed to sort out his equipment and was soon in the pool. Like yesterday, he had some moments of anxiety as he first went down and tried to steady his breathing. After some 5 or 10 minutes he was settling and decided it was time to surface for a stern talking-to. Resting and talking through the intellectual barriers that seemed to be hampering him helped and he was soon ready to try again. Back at the bottom he practised his fin pivot, and his neutral buoyancy, then practised various out-of-air situations – He’s not sure, but was there a glint of glee in Cousteau-cub’s eye as she reached across and turn off his air supply?

The anxiety of yesterday’s session had dispersed and this session was far better. GF is not convinced he will ever find it natural, but at least he feels a little more confident about giving it a try.

Finished, we headed the few steps to the beach where we enjoyed a cool drink and watched as the sun dipped towards the horizon.

This really is idyllic and it’s easy to see why Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit love it here – but boy, do they have to work hard.

With the sun finally set we retuned to the huge thatched, open-sided restaurant – we were the only guests. By this time Coventry Hobbit had joined us and we had a lovely meal before heading back to the hotel

Big day

Big day today. Gorse Fox started his diving course… and Silver Vixen got to meet the elephants.

(Not so many photos today – as you will see)

Things – needless to say – didn’t go quite to plan. The morning was spent going through the diving theory. Silver Vixen sat with GF on the balcony at Narima as Cousteau-cub  quizzed GF on the theory. It may not come as a great surprise that GF had no problems with that side of things.

During the afternoon the pace of life changed… GF’s theory needed some practical skills to accompany it, and Silver Vixen was there to shout encouragement whilst C-c patiently tried to teach an old dog some new tricks. Unfortunately. this old dog found some of the new tricks a little tricky and found that brain and body did not always coordinate the way in which they should. Donning a mask is easy enough (years in disguise as a super hero came in useful there) and even breathing through the regulator was not too taxing. But slipping below the water line whilst doing both seemed to be a paradigm shift that would not come easily. More than once he had to surface to complete basic functions (like breathing)… even though they should have been simple enough to do under water (if your brain is allowed to process all of the facts – rather than just the traditional ones).

Whilst GF was struggling to come to terms with losing a regulator, or clearing a mask, or maintaining neutral buoyancy the Silver Vixen went off with the Coventry Hobbit to meet the elephants. This was the highlight of her day – and she has taken huge amounts of video to capture the experience.

We watched the sun go down from Narima and the Silver Vixen disappeared with the owner of the resort.

Some time later, after watching the sunset, then the afterglow, and then stars come out the Silver Vixen returned.

Dinner was ordered…

Narima

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit (and Bruno, the dog) live a few kilometres south of the resort where GF and the Silver Vixen are staying. Making the most of the transport that they had laid on, we drove south and spent the evening at the Narima resort. Their home is a bungalow just outside the grounds and they run the dive shop at the complex.

Making the most of their close relationship with the resort we had dinner in the vast open sided thatched hut. This was home to the restaurant, a bar, a shop, and the dive shop. It also had TV and that was showing the Liverpool-Chelsea football match, live. A fine way to enjoy an evening meal. Narima also provides free WiFi – so GF connected up to try and Skype with Urban-cub… but though she had been online earlier, she had dropped off to do some shopping by the time we were able to connect.

After dinner, plans were made for the morning and we headed back to Rawi Warin (our resort). It had been a good day.

In Paradiso

First impressions of Koh Lanta are that it is a little corner of Paradise.  The stunning view from our apartment is like a magnet for the eyes – you just can’t quite drag your attention away.

(Also, moving from the air conditioned room to the humid balcony makes the lens of the camera mist up!!! This can be seen in the larger of these three photos). The plan for our first day on the island is – not to have a plan. A quiet day taking in the surroundings.

We took a quiet stroll through the gardens to the bar where breakfast was being served.  The grounds were beautifully manicured – with pools and ponds, waterfalls and small shaded pavilions and glades.  It was really quite magical – and once more, we seemed to have the place to ourselves

A wide ranging buffet ensured there was plenty to choose from for breakfast and provided a good start to the day. We continued our tour of the complex after eating and found a a sort of boutique that sold knick-knacks, sportswear, and some fabric. Needless to say we did not leave empty-handed.

Back at the room we changed – slapped sunscreen on our pale bodies, and headed back down to the beach and pool. Again, with the exception of about an hour during the mid-afternoon, we had the whole place to ourselves. This allowed us to get on with some reading (studying the dive books) and designing handbags (the Silver Vixen, not Gorse Fox) – and dropping into the se or pool when the mood took us. Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit turned up at about 4:30 to join us in the pool… and plan the evening’s entertainment (well, where we’d eat!).

(P.S. Any comments on the small collages as opposed to the individual photos posted before? GF though this may be a way of getting more visual information across quickly).

Sic Transit…

Ah yes, Saturday. And so begins the next stage of the holiday as we head down to the South-West of Thailand with Cousteau-cub. 

The usual chaos of re-packing consumed a chunk of the morning around breakfast… but did not interrupt the blessed meal. As you can see from the picture, the Gorse Fox went for the healthy option of stir-fried chicken, vegetables and noodles with a fried egg. Some meals just have to be taken seriously.

Cousteau-cub came along to meet us just as the last coffee was being drained. We checked-out and then grabbed a taxi to the airport. Now just to acclimatise the reader to the cost of living in (expensive) Bangkok – the taxi ride took us about 40 minutes south east of the city and cost 280Baht. At the prevailing exchange rate, that’s £6.08… significantly less than a taxi from Southbank to Victoria.

We checked in and went through to the departure lounge. GF watched the bags whilst Silver Vixen and C-c looked at the shops (and bumped into Gordon Ramsay near the perfume counter!). Bangkok is nearing monsoon season. As if to remind the unwary traveller, the heavens decided it was a good time for a dress rehearsal. We were glad to be inside. The rain came down with such vigour that even the locals stopped to take pictures with their mobile phones.

The flight from Bangkok only takes just over an hour and takes us to Krabi. Cousteau-cub’s partner, the Coventry Hobbit, met us at the airport and loaded us into a huge Mitsubishi pickup – with out luggage in the open back and us in the huge 4-door cab.

A quick stop to buy some black plastic bags to cover the cases against the threatening storm allowed us to set off with confidence southwards. Gorse Fox drew his phone to send a message to Urban-cub but just as he was halfway through she phoned him. The line was dreadful (GF suspects that the Skype connection was hampered by the storm overhead) – but we resolved to try and speak again tomorrow. The journey continued south until we arrived at the first ferry that would carry us across to Little Koh Lanta. From there we headed south by car, cross on the ferry to one island, then cross on another ferry to Ko Lanta. Once on the island the traffic raced across to the other side so that they could get pride of place on the second ferry that would carry them across to the big island. This second crossing was only some 400m and only took a few minutes. (Oh, yes… it may look a little grey, but it was still 36C)

The ferry drops you near Saladden(?) at the top of the island and then the Coventry Hobbit guided us south along the western side of the island until we arrived at our resort. This turned out to be an excellent looking complex stretching from the beach up the side of a hill and wrapping round exquisite gardens and pools.

The view from our room takes some beating as we stood and watched the sun dip towards the horizon from our balcony. It is a fairly steep set of steps down to the pool and bars, but dialling “0” from the room had a little man scampering along in a golf buggy to ensure we did not over-exert ourselves.

GF dropped back into reception and discovered that internet access would help solve the national debt, so resolved to 1) prepare in advance, b) upload, and c) drop off.

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit joined us for dinner and then after a couple of beers, headed off home (about 5km further south). The Gorse Fox and Silver Vixen were chauffeured back up to their room… and excellent day being had by all.

Selecting fabrics

Night market selections.

Night market

Picture of a Bangkok night market