Another Gratuitous Sunset

Another fabulous sunset as seen from our room.

Scuba

0630 saw the Gorse Fox up and about and preparing for another adventure. The Silver Vixen opted to stay in bed and enjoy a cup of tea and her book. The Gorse Fox bade adieu and headed south to Kantiang Bay where he met up with Cousteau-cub.

Today was to be the second pair of dives needed for his “Open Water” diver’s qualification. A throng assembled. He would like to have thought they were well-wishers, but actually they were just other divers lost in their own thoughts preparing for today’s adventure.

The speed boat was pretty full, with 16 divers, the boat crew, and five or six instructors. The destination, as before, was Koh Haa. This is fine because it’s only 35 minutes to and from the site. As before, the Gorse Fox had personal attention fro Cousteau-cub and this time there was a student doing his Dive Master who was along to observe. Stepping off the back of the boat into the blue saw the Gorse Fox bob back to the surface where he had to show how he could get into his scuba gear in the water. With all the grace of a walrus (mountaineering) he managed to push the gear down and slip his arms through the correct opening and do up all of the fastenings. Then he had to put on his weight belt in the water. This involves holding the belt in one hand whilst rolling such that the belt warps itself across your back and you do it up whilst face-down. Again this was not an elegant motion, but again it was completed without fuss or grace.

Descending to the bottom GF managed to take on sea-water. This was neither pleasant, nor intentional – and it certainly made the next few minutes a little unpleasant. He had to practise a controlled swimming ascent (CESA) that went without incident, and then kneeling on the bottom had to remove his scuba equipment then put it back on, and finally remove his weight-belt and put it back on. Skills demonstrated it was time to enjoy the dive and we headed off round the coral surrounding one of the limestone karst stacks. This time the Gorse Fox was allowed to go deeper and stay under for longer. It was a magical world with angel fish, clown fish, barracuda, octopus, eels, sea snakes, box fish and so forth. The corals themselves were a fantastic mixture of hues – reds, russets, yellow, vibrant blues, whites and so forth. Unfortunately the magical mystery tour had to come to an end and we recovered the surface, got back on the boat and rested until the next dive.

Again curry and rice was the order of the day – creating a good ballast and store of carbohydrate for the body to call on. The heat was stifling and the air was so thick you could almost cut it. The thought of another dive was an exciting relief and meant that we would soon be back breathing dry, cool air, albeit in 31c water.

We rested nearly 90 minutes between the dives and then began the second adventure. This saw Cousteau-cub, the Gorse Fox and the trainee Dive Master drop over the side and swim to the wall of the island. Then, working with the surge we dropped below the surface and entered the peace of the underwater realm. GF had the last of his skills to exhibit – with a full mask removal and replacement and then underwater navigation with a compass. Done, we then headed round the island to huge cavern below the surface. Entering we marvelled at the way the various fish were silhouetted against the light behind us, and we looked for some of the denizens that C-c had expected to find. This time we were not so lucky and they had obviously gone off for morning coffee. We swam from one cavern into another even larger one, known as the Cathedral. We had discussed surfacing in there, but decided the surge was too strong so moved on through another passageway to exit back out into the mottled sunlight below the waves.

After about 45 minutes we headed back to the surface, climbed aboard the boat and headed back to land. With the exception of the final exam – GF had completed his course… and was feeling smug.

Gratuitous Sunset Photo

As the sun set on another blistering day (boat captain said it was 41C) we showered and prepared to head the few kilometres south to meet up with Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit for dinner.

Islands

Saturday (it is Saturday, isn’t it?) saw the alarm set early. Cousteau-cub would be waiting in the car park at 07:20 and we would be heading nort to Sala Dan. As things worked out, C-c was late. Unlike her. When she turned up, however, the reason became clear. She had caught her long skirt in her motorcycle chain and needed help from some passing (very amused) Thai people to free her but ripping her skirt with an old razor blade.

Anyway, crisis averted we headed north in the car to Sala Dan (about 12 kms) and parked by the ferry pier. Here we would pick up the passenger ferry to take us across to Ko Phi Phi, so long her home.

We were early for the ferry (the car being so much quicker than the motorbikes on which the journey was based). This gave us time to have a look around the harbour-side and see all of the houses on stilts jockeying for space along the waterfront. We boarded and made ourselves comfortable before the inevitable last minute rush.

The crossing to Phi Phi takes about an hour and fortunately the sea was like a mill pond (without the swans and haywains). The boat moored briefly alongside another ferry to transfer the Phuket-bound passengers, then continued in to the main pier for the island. This came as a bit of a surprise. It was far more commercialised that the Gorse Fox had expected and has obviously become a victim of its own popularity. As we disembarked and headed along the pier we were accosted by people offering taxi-boat trips, boat trips, dives, accommodation, and goodness knows what else. Following Cousteau-cub we strode straight through the middle of the island and out the other side into the bay where she had been based.

This was like walking through a stargate from the chaos of the pier and the shops and stalls to the tranquillity of the bay. The white talcum-like sand was unmarked as we strolled along the water-line to the corner of the beach where C-c’s friend Mel, husband Ben and daughter lived in a splendid bar called Sunflower.  Ben lost his first wife and children in the tsunami – and indeed 18 members of his family.
So much was lost in 7 minutes and he said it is his duty to rebuild in 7 years.

The Sunflower has all been built using reclaimed flotsam from the tsunami, and even the tables are chunks of old longtails. Very moving.

Being low season, the normal ferry schedules had been changed. As a result we had to catch an 1130 crossing back to Koh Lanta. This limited what we could see, but saying goodbye to Mel and Ben we headed back to the centre of the island and the throng. Stopping to look in a few stalls and pick up some Danish pastries for breakfast it was soon time to catch the ferry for the trip back. It is easy to see what Ko Phi Phi once was, but it has become a victim of its own success and it is easy to see why Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit moved to Koh Lanta.

Old Town

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit had a day where they were not needed in the shop or on a boat. Soon afterr breakfast C-c joined us and we set off on some exploring.

Now first it is important to understand that exploration by car is limited – there are only 2 roads on the island. We decided to take the eastern fork and across the mountain to the east side of the island and to visit Lanta Old Town.  This is the oldest proper settlement on the island (the clue is in the name) and is a charming ribbon settlement of clapboard houses and wooden shops built on stilts over the shoreline. At high tide the waters lap beneath the houses, but we were there at low tide, so only a few of the deeper dwellings bestrode the lapping waves beneath.

The temperature was soaring and the streets were deserted. It reminded the Gorse Fox of the set from a long forgotten western. We strolled along the main street and made the odd stop at shops that sold fabrics or knick-knacks. There was an eerie tranquillity about the place that was quite alluring. The heat, being what it was (just a hair’s breadth below 100F) drove us into a small restaurant perched on stilts out in the bay.

Fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple, and mango juice quenched the thirst as we sat and watched the waters lap the bay and the few clouds progress across the sky. This was a fabulous spot and the views were quite amazing.

Dragging ourselves away we headed back down the main street to where we had left the car. Then pottering back up the mountain we stopped at another restaurant with a view over the whole eastern channel and its islands. Coventry Hobbit was there to meet us and we enjoyed anothr cold drink whilst discussing plans for the afternoon.

There several suggestions, but in the end the plan was to take the road south towards the lighthouse, then head to Kantiang Bay (where the dive shop is) so that Silver Vixen could see it in daylight.

The first part of the journey south was fairly straightforward, but just at the southern end of Kantiang Bay the road peters out. With the exception of a few very short paved stretches, it seemed to be a dirt track for several kilometres. We ventured as far as Klong Jak where we stopped to find out about the elephants bathing habits, to admire the bay, and to take on more fluids.

We debated whether to continue to the lighthouse, but GF was nervous about the impact of the unpaved road on the Silver Vixen so we decided to turn back.

We stopped at the dive shop on the way back – this allowed C-c and the C-H to check on plans for the next few days and the Silver Vixen got a chance to see the Sunday Times’ 9th best beach in the world.

It was hot and time to cool off. We headed back to the resort and spent and hour or so in the pool before showering to get ready for dinner. There was the customary sunset to admire… but we were in a hurry to meet up again and grab something to eat.

We chose a place at random – and this seemed to be where it was all happening. The bar owner was celebrating his birthday. This meant that was psychedelic music from the late 60’s, there was a crowd, and we sat out on the beach like hippies enjoying out food and a cold drink. As we prepared to leave the owner came round offering marijuana cakes – we respectfully declined, so he came back round with some genuine victoria sponge for us a few minutes later. The Gorse Fox suspect the roads will be carnage later tonight!

(You might expect the Gorse Fox to make some comment regarding the election. He is going to limit himself to expressing his despair that so many of his countrymen voted for the continuation of Labour’s destruction of the United Kingdom, its freedoms, its traditions, and its peoples. A better excuse for eugenics he cannot imagine).

Rumours

Rumours swept the dive community yesterday. It appears that there had been a sighting of a rare t-shirt on an anonymous diver, some 30 metres down near an island at the south of Ko Lanta.

The Gorse Fox approached Viki the Lens and sure enough amongst all of the photos shot that day we found the evidence.

It isn’t clear who this is, or which of the world-wide tour dates was the source of the t-shirt, but it is clear that Cardinal Sin and the Bum Notes’ fan base spreads far and wide. Who was this masked stranger? We may never know.

The Gorse Fox was excited by this find. That the popular beat combo’s reputation had spread even to the islands of the Andaman Sea seemed extraordinary. During his dives he kept his eyes peeled. Though diving in a different spot, would this masked stranger turn up? Better than that. As Cousteau-cub helped the Gorse Fox become accustomed to this new and enchanting environment they swam past to more CS&BN fans posing for a photo. One, so incredibly cool that she eschewed the traditional diver’s mask, for sun glasses.

The other, not so cool, but posing nonetheless.

Momentous Events

Thursday started early for the Gorse Fox (actually, very early  as he found that sleep eluded him most of the night). He was up and out of the room before seven and striding purposefully (and with a degree of trepidation) down to the car for a rendezvous with Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit.

Driving here is a bit hit and miss. (OK, that’s a bad turn of phrase). Driving here requires that you keep your wits very much about you as you watch for all sorts of crazy manoeuvres by the riders on the scooters (some, quite literally, children), and their passengers – yes many of the scooter may have three or or four passengers sharing the pillion. GF avoided incident on his drive south, but was pleasantly startled by the sight of a mahout riding a huge bull elephant along the road towards him. Not the sort of obstacle one gets used to on the A259!

First things first. Once GF arrived at the resort he checked the WiFi status so that he could find the scores from last nights game. Delighted that Spurs had beaten ne’er-do-wells of Manchester and achieved Champions League for next season boded well for the day. Administrative details complete, and other divers assembled we were soon on the speed boat heading west towards Ko Haa (5 Islands) where the next stage of GF’s diver training was to take place.

This small group of islands comprises a number of limestone stacks and a small sandy lagoon. It is part of a marine park and protected – a responsibility that “Scubafish” take very seriously.

The Coventry Hobbit completed his briefing of his clutch of divers and they entered the water. GF got the gear on – fins, buoyancy control device, scuba tank, regulator set and mask. Clutching the regulator and mask to his face he stepped off the back of the boat. And so began the next part of the training in the capable hands of Cousteau-cub.

Some 43 minutes later, GF surfaced from the deep. He had seen more exotic fish in these few minutes than he had seen in his life, and without  realising had been over 11 metres below the surface. The anxiety of the pool sessions melted away and the wonder of the sights on offer made the heart soar. Unfortunately, when he surfaced, the ingress of salt water into his smiling mouth had the effect of inducing a coughing fit – but that will remain all that is said of that.

Back on the boat we moved round to the lagoon. It was about 10 on the morning – and that my friends is time for a Massaman Curry. We were resting prior to the second planned dive and need some degree of sustenance. Some ignored the curry and for the whimps option of fruit, but GF decided he needed to have a little more ballast.

The 90 minute stop gave us a chance to let some of the nitrogen disperse, and gave us time to gather strength for the next dive. Some of the others used the time to snorkel across to the beach. GF decided that, at his age, energy was not there to be squandered.

The second dive went much as the first. GF stepped into the blue and Cousteau-cub took him through some exercises to show that he had grasped the theory correctly. Then, we slowly descended and swam slowly around the island. We reached a depth of 12m and remained under water for 54 minutes. As we circumnavigated the limestone stack we saw the fantastic shapes and colours of the coral, the tiny fish that hid among their fronds, squid (and their eggs), a Moses sole, a school of barracuda, clown fish, angel fish, moray eels, sea cucumbers, and as we swam through an overhang the Gorse Fox couldn’t help but marvel that he had had such an opportunity.

The boat headed back for bay from we left. The journey back was quiet as we all seemed lost in our thoughts or were dozing.
Log books needed to be filled in and Vicky, the photographer who had accompanied the dive needed to show us the pictures that she had taken.

GF chilled out for a while with Cousteau-cub before headed back up north to to reclaim the missing Silver Vixen. She had made the most of the peace and quite to explore the resort a bit more, to swim and to start on another book. By mid-afternoon the exertions of the morning had caught up and GF retired to the room for a shower and a snooze.

Missing

Just in case you are missing a sunset photo, the Gorse Fox presents this, taken from his balcony as the sun went down.

(By the way, none of these sunset photos has been enhanced or retouched in any way – this is exactly as they came out of the camera).

It’s a bit Eyrie

Sitting on the balcony the Gorse Fox and Silver Vixen enjoyed the 34C heat whilst remaining shaded. The humidity of yesterday had lifted somewhat and it was quite comfortable watching the world below.

The beach appeared deserted, the only boats were out on the horizon. It would have been easy to believe we were entirely alone.

Gorse Fox’s iPod continued to leak “A Time Traveller’s Guide to the Fourteenth Century” into his consciousness whilst the Silver Vixen listened to “Lollipop Shoes”.

Our eagles returned. The Gorse Fox leapt to his feet and grabbed the camera from inside. Then had to wait for several minutes whilst the lens demisted, having hit the outside air.

His patience was rewarded when, after several photos of blank sky, the eagle swooped past the lens at just the right angle to show off his plumage.

GF is no ornithologist – but appreciates the sheer majesty of this creature as it goes about its daily rituals along with its mate.

We headed down to the beach and strolled along to a bar just south of the hotel. This proved to be a find as we managed to get a couple of drinks for 100Baht… probably a quarter of the price at the pool bar in the hotel. From there we could clearly see our room hugging the side of the cliff behind us. And “no” we don’t have to climb up there to get to get to it. A nice little man in a buggy drives us up the hill whenever we want. (Given that some sections of the road are nearly 45 degrees…. that’s probably just as well in this heat).

After a few photos and a drink we headed back along the rustic beach to the hotel and settled down by the pool. At least we did until the pool itself became so inviting that we dropped into the water for a long relaxing swim.

As the sun moved round and the day drew on we finally packed up to return to our room and get showered and ready for dinner.

Downtime

Cousteau-cub had administrative work to complete and the Coventry Hobbit had 3 dives scheduled – we decided that Wednesday would be quiet. Just as well really when we didn’t even wake up until 0900.

After breakfast we watched in fascination as a large lizard watched from the edge of the fish pools and competed with the fish for scraps being hurled in from the balcony. Must have been a Labour lizard as he was more interested in taking the scraps away from the fish, than actually eating them himself. A small heron-like (Lib-dem) bird came to join the fun but had limited success but evidently was entranced by the success of the Labour lizard’s skill in stealing everything from the fish. Gorse Fox felt there was a subliminal message here- but could not quite put his finger on it.

Back to work (Not !)

Whilst readers in the UK may be struggling to accept that the Bank Holiday is over… for us (with a certain frisson of smugness) it was another day of rest. The diving of yesterday had taken a surprising toll – the Gorse Fox (normally a morning person) had significant trouble stirring himself and getting ready to go down for breakfast.

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit were both out diving on boats with clients during the morning so the Silver Vixen and Gorse Fox decided to eschew the car (well car might be doing it a disservice – its a Mitsubishi Triton, pickup) and stay put on our balcony looking out over the Andaman Sea.

With iPods leaking audio books into our ears we had a very peaceful morning staying out of the sun and melting slowly in the humidity. Showers had been forecast as a possibility – but never amounted to anything on land. The Gorse Fox observed a sea eagle soar past the balcony as it searched for prey. It seemed unaware of our presence a came within a few metres of us – huge reddy-brown wings stretched wide with black pinions. The sun seemed to make the feather almost glow as it searched – its white head and yellow eye-markings guiding it back and forth. Quite mesmerising.

Mid afternoon we headed back to Narima – which makes us feel so welcome that it’s like a home from home (but without having to do the chores). Cousteau-cub was ready to continue Gorse Fox’s tuition. He managed to sort out his equipment and was soon in the pool. Like yesterday, he had some moments of anxiety as he first went down and tried to steady his breathing. After some 5 or 10 minutes he was settling and decided it was time to surface for a stern talking-to. Resting and talking through the intellectual barriers that seemed to be hampering him helped and he was soon ready to try again. Back at the bottom he practised his fin pivot, and his neutral buoyancy, then practised various out-of-air situations – He’s not sure, but was there a glint of glee in Cousteau-cub’s eye as she reached across and turn off his air supply?

The anxiety of yesterday’s session had dispersed and this session was far better. GF is not convinced he will ever find it natural, but at least he feels a little more confident about giving it a try.

Finished, we headed the few steps to the beach where we enjoyed a cool drink and watched as the sun dipped towards the horizon.

This really is idyllic and it’s easy to see why Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit love it here – but boy, do they have to work hard.

With the sun finally set we retuned to the huge thatched, open-sided restaurant – we were the only guests. By this time Coventry Hobbit had joined us and we had a lovely meal before heading back to the hotel

Big day

Big day today. Gorse Fox started his diving course… and Silver Vixen got to meet the elephants.

(Not so many photos today – as you will see)

Things – needless to say – didn’t go quite to plan. The morning was spent going through the diving theory. Silver Vixen sat with GF on the balcony at Narima as Cousteau-cub  quizzed GF on the theory. It may not come as a great surprise that GF had no problems with that side of things.

During the afternoon the pace of life changed… GF’s theory needed some practical skills to accompany it, and Silver Vixen was there to shout encouragement whilst C-c patiently tried to teach an old dog some new tricks. Unfortunately. this old dog found some of the new tricks a little tricky and found that brain and body did not always coordinate the way in which they should. Donning a mask is easy enough (years in disguise as a super hero came in useful there) and even breathing through the regulator was not too taxing. But slipping below the water line whilst doing both seemed to be a paradigm shift that would not come easily. More than once he had to surface to complete basic functions (like breathing)… even though they should have been simple enough to do under water (if your brain is allowed to process all of the facts – rather than just the traditional ones).

Whilst GF was struggling to come to terms with losing a regulator, or clearing a mask, or maintaining neutral buoyancy the Silver Vixen went off with the Coventry Hobbit to meet the elephants. This was the highlight of her day – and she has taken huge amounts of video to capture the experience.

We watched the sun go down from Narima and the Silver Vixen disappeared with the owner of the resort.

Some time later, after watching the sunset, then the afterglow, and then stars come out the Silver Vixen returned.

Dinner was ordered…

Narima

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit (and Bruno, the dog) live a few kilometres south of the resort where GF and the Silver Vixen are staying. Making the most of the transport that they had laid on, we drove south and spent the evening at the Narima resort. Their home is a bungalow just outside the grounds and they run the dive shop at the complex.

Making the most of their close relationship with the resort we had dinner in the vast open sided thatched hut. This was home to the restaurant, a bar, a shop, and the dive shop. It also had TV and that was showing the Liverpool-Chelsea football match, live. A fine way to enjoy an evening meal. Narima also provides free WiFi – so GF connected up to try and Skype with Urban-cub… but though she had been online earlier, she had dropped off to do some shopping by the time we were able to connect.

After dinner, plans were made for the morning and we headed back to Rawi Warin (our resort). It had been a good day.

In Paradiso

First impressions of Koh Lanta are that it is a little corner of Paradise.  The stunning view from our apartment is like a magnet for the eyes – you just can’t quite drag your attention away.

(Also, moving from the air conditioned room to the humid balcony makes the lens of the camera mist up!!! This can be seen in the larger of these three photos). The plan for our first day on the island is – not to have a plan. A quiet day taking in the surroundings.

We took a quiet stroll through the gardens to the bar where breakfast was being served.  The grounds were beautifully manicured – with pools and ponds, waterfalls and small shaded pavilions and glades.  It was really quite magical – and once more, we seemed to have the place to ourselves

A wide ranging buffet ensured there was plenty to choose from for breakfast and provided a good start to the day. We continued our tour of the complex after eating and found a a sort of boutique that sold knick-knacks, sportswear, and some fabric. Needless to say we did not leave empty-handed.

Back at the room we changed – slapped sunscreen on our pale bodies, and headed back down to the beach and pool. Again, with the exception of about an hour during the mid-afternoon, we had the whole place to ourselves. This allowed us to get on with some reading (studying the dive books) and designing handbags (the Silver Vixen, not Gorse Fox) – and dropping into the se or pool when the mood took us. Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit turned up at about 4:30 to join us in the pool… and plan the evening’s entertainment (well, where we’d eat!).

(P.S. Any comments on the small collages as opposed to the individual photos posted before? GF though this may be a way of getting more visual information across quickly).

Sic Transit…

Ah yes, Saturday. And so begins the next stage of the holiday as we head down to the South-West of Thailand with Cousteau-cub. 

The usual chaos of re-packing consumed a chunk of the morning around breakfast… but did not interrupt the blessed meal. As you can see from the picture, the Gorse Fox went for the healthy option of stir-fried chicken, vegetables and noodles with a fried egg. Some meals just have to be taken seriously.

Cousteau-cub came along to meet us just as the last coffee was being drained. We checked-out and then grabbed a taxi to the airport. Now just to acclimatise the reader to the cost of living in (expensive) Bangkok – the taxi ride took us about 40 minutes south east of the city and cost 280Baht. At the prevailing exchange rate, that’s £6.08… significantly less than a taxi from Southbank to Victoria.

We checked in and went through to the departure lounge. GF watched the bags whilst Silver Vixen and C-c looked at the shops (and bumped into Gordon Ramsay near the perfume counter!). Bangkok is nearing monsoon season. As if to remind the unwary traveller, the heavens decided it was a good time for a dress rehearsal. We were glad to be inside. The rain came down with such vigour that even the locals stopped to take pictures with their mobile phones.

The flight from Bangkok only takes just over an hour and takes us to Krabi. Cousteau-cub’s partner, the Coventry Hobbit, met us at the airport and loaded us into a huge Mitsubishi pickup – with out luggage in the open back and us in the huge 4-door cab.

A quick stop to buy some black plastic bags to cover the cases against the threatening storm allowed us to set off with confidence southwards. Gorse Fox drew his phone to send a message to Urban-cub but just as he was halfway through she phoned him. The line was dreadful (GF suspects that the Skype connection was hampered by the storm overhead) – but we resolved to try and speak again tomorrow. The journey continued south until we arrived at the first ferry that would carry us across to Little Koh Lanta. From there we headed south by car, cross on the ferry to one island, then cross on another ferry to Ko Lanta. Once on the island the traffic raced across to the other side so that they could get pride of place on the second ferry that would carry them across to the big island. This second crossing was only some 400m and only took a few minutes. (Oh, yes… it may look a little grey, but it was still 36C)

The ferry drops you near Saladden(?) at the top of the island and then the Coventry Hobbit guided us south along the western side of the island until we arrived at our resort. This turned out to be an excellent looking complex stretching from the beach up the side of a hill and wrapping round exquisite gardens and pools.

The view from our room takes some beating as we stood and watched the sun dip towards the horizon from our balcony. It is a fairly steep set of steps down to the pool and bars, but dialling “0” from the room had a little man scampering along in a golf buggy to ensure we did not over-exert ourselves.

GF dropped back into reception and discovered that internet access would help solve the national debt, so resolved to 1) prepare in advance, b) upload, and c) drop off.

Cousteau-cub and the Coventry Hobbit joined us for dinner and then after a couple of beers, headed off home (about 5km further south). The Gorse Fox and Silver Vixen were chauffeured back up to their room… and excellent day being had by all.

Selecting fabrics

Night market selections.

Night market

Picture of a Bangkok night market

One night in Bangkok

One night in Bangkok left this strong man unbroken… but a morning in MBK was quite the other way. The Gorse Fox should explain that MBK is a shopping mall near the National Stadium. It’s big. In fact it’s very big. About the size of Berkshire… and then stacked up across 7 floors.

This photo is one of the two atriums (atria?) where lifts and escalators transport bewildered shoppers between the floors.

One of these floors was dedicated to knick-knacks, pashminas, scarves, and silks. Is there any more that needs saying? As we wandered about the Gorse Fox marvelled at the degree of competition and salesmanship exhibited by the store keepers. Despite their best ministration we managed to escape with only a scarf clutched in a small plastic bag.

Escaping the clutches of the 6th floor we descended to the fifth. This was new experience. One corner of the mall was cordoned off and as you entered you were given a credit card. With this clutched in your hand, you wandered through a number of stands where you selected the food that you fancied and put it on the card.
The choice was superb: Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, Italian, French, American, Chinese, Indian and so on. Cousteau-cub pigged out on curry, whilst the Gorse Fox (being in Thailand) had Japanese nigiri and teppanyaki seafood grill with ramen noodles. The Silver Vixen demolished a Thai red curry. This was superb and such a simple but practical concept. As you leave you hand in the credit card and they work out the total owed.

Feeling full we burst out of the air-conditioned mall back into the 37C heat. Our destination was the other side of the river from where we went yesterday. A taxi was called for and we plunged headlong into Bangkok traffic. This, it became clear, drives (essentially) on the left as we do in England. However, it was also clear that road-markings, pedestrian crossings, and even traffic lights were no more than a convention to be adhered to by the timid. GF noticed a sign as he passed – but wqas too slow to grab the camera as they swept past “Porn Petch”. No comment will be added at this point.

Arriving at the pier we used yesterday we caught the ferry across the river. Our destination may look like the Bangkok Space Centre, but is actually Wat Arun one of the last Khmer-styled edifices to be raised in the City. Known as the Temple of the Dawn it dominates the west bank of the river, almost opposite the Grand Palace.

The short ferry ride deposited us on the west bank and we headed for the temple grounds.

One of the things worth noting at this stage is that we seem to have the various tourist sites virtually to ourselves. C-c was right in calling this low season – but it did mean that we really do get a brilliant experience. We paid our 50Baht (about £1) and walked into the complex and started wandering about. There was  magical feel to the place and GF couldn’t help but think of pictures he had seen of the temples at Chichen Itza in Mexico. The steep steps lead up to various stages – but were so steep that it made you think twice before ascending.

The Gorse Fox leapt, like a mountain-goat(*), up the side. The view, already god, got steadily better. At the top level GF turned a corner and surprised an attractive oriental girl enjoying a Marilyn Munro moment in the updraft as she took some photos. Whilst alone up their she obviously was not concerned – but the GF joining her, modesty prevailed.

As he has mentioned, the views were superb. (No! Behave!). From the top there was great view across the river to the Grand Palace.

Climbing backwards back down to ground level the Gorse Fox rejoined Couteau-cub and the Silver Vixen and they headed back to the river to catch the ferry and then the water taxi back to the sky train and the hotel.

It was still hot and steamy and the pool seemed an attractive option.

The sun was going down (remember this is the tropics and it gets dark at about six-thirty.

Cousteau-cub’s dive computer revealed the pool temperature to be 30C. It was like dropping into a warm bath (well, without the soap and bubbles). All three of us made the most of the facilities and whiled away some “chillax” time swimming back and forth.

Showered and ready rock we headed back out to a night market… but maybe that will be a tale for another time!

(*) Some may question this metaphor, and suggest walrus may be more appropriate.

Bright-eyed

We strolled along to a famous restaurant last night. It has 10 years of awards rating it as the best in the City. Certainly it was excellent – if a little pricey. We parted from C-c who headed back to her hotel as we headed for ours, a quick internet fix, and bed.

This morning – we slept in. There was sleep to make up – and who were we to ignore it. Now, bright-eyed and bushy tailed (metaphorically at least) we prepare to meet the day.

Being a Tourist

Being a tourist is always a bit more fun if you have someone with you who knows the lie of the land and watches out for pitfalls. Cousteau-cub provided just such a service.

We headed across to the sky train where we picked up the next ride to towards Sathorn and the River.
The air conditioned carriage was already seen as a must. The 27C heat when we landed had increased now that the sun was well up and the humidity was stifling. The journey only took 5-10 minutes and we were deposited by the small pier where we picked up a ferry to take us to the heart of the city.


The ferry passed plush hotels perched next to slums, fabulous palaces and small restaurants. All life was there, as they say.
We disembarked just before the Grand Palace and wandered through a small market and found a number of street traders setting up for the day. Cousteau-cub needed breakfast – and we needed a drink already. Stir-fried chicken, chilli, and basil on sticky rice ensured C-c was not going hungry and iced green tea ensured we didn’t dehydrate. As we left the little plastic stools on the road-side we encountered the first of many attempts to scam us. As we approached the side gate of the Palace a chap assured us it didn’t open until 1 o’clock – but was happy to guide us round elsewhere until it opened. C-c answered him in Thai – and he immediately realised he was found-out and left us alone. This particular scam was tried out about 4 or 5 times as we walked the perimeter of the Palace to the main entrance.


Inside the walls stands a different world. It was phantasmagorical. Pinnacles, spires, and domes dripping with gold and with coloured tiles that caught and reflected the tropical sun. It was, quite literally, breath-taking. As we made our way round every path and and corner, new vistas and new marvels were revealed. This was different world. (Talking of which, the Gorse Fox noticed how many foreigners there were. Chirpy little coves. Nice smiles and funny way of talking.)

We stopped at many of the temples and, removing our shoes and hats would wander in to see the shrines.
Compared to the Baroque obscenities of some of the European Cathedrals – these had a peace and charm and lightness that made the visit a pleasure. There is a problem, however. Bruising. When your jaw keep dropping at these sights, you end up with a bruise on the chin.
From the Palace we headed on to Wat Pho – the giant 40 metre Buddha in another collection of stunning courtyards and palaces. Many, many more photos were taken and they will, no doubt, find their way onto Flickr at some point.
We headed back to the hotel. It had been a long day and we didn’t want to overdo it in the heat. An hour or two to rest was called for – then we would head out once more… for who knows what!

In Bkk

The rest of the flight went off without incident and we arrived at the futuristic airport in Bangkok. We were quickly through the formalities and heading for the taxis.

The taxi driver smiled and grabbed the first of our bags and opened the trunk of his car – across the trunk hung a washing line with various items of the recent wash still drying. The Silver Vixens case took pride of place next to the driver – there’s no need to disturb the washing!

While we made our way to the hotel the texts started to ping back and forth. It was clear that Urban-cub had been following our progress and had now formally handed the baton of control over to Cousteau-cub.

We checked-in and made our way to the room – within a few minutes the phone call from reception was announcing the arrival of Cousteau-cub and she headed up to join us. It has been a long time since we last saw her and it was so exciting to see her again that we just sat down and chatted for an hour or so before deciding on what to do for the day.

Timezones

The Gorse Fox has now leapt forward 6 hours by adjusting the timezone on the computer. Outside a bright moon glints off the engines as we streak through the night. Not sure where we are at present but we passed Amritsar about an hour back.

6

About six hours to go. The flight has been very comfortable despite the evident age of of the 747-400. It seems strange to be on a flight without individual screens in the back of the seats… but on the TV screen up front they are showing Avatar.

Most of our fellow travellers are asleep.

Aloft

The morning started early – but that is the pleasure of international travel and the need for three hor check-in times. This conspiring with the vaguaries of the M25 mean that you have to be cautious and allow plenty of time.

Urban-cub acted as chauffeuse and ensured we had a trouble-free first leg of the journey. Arriving at LHR we completed our check-in, picked up a few bob of Thai currency and headed off to get some breakfast.

Suitably replete and with time trickling on we bade adieu to Urban-cub and prepared for the next leg of the journey to see Cousteau-cub. Every stage of the trip seemed to be going remarkably smoothly – no queues for check-in, no queues for security, pleasant stroll around the shops, half empty plane… This is how travel should be.

The flight left on time and took a track across the North Sea. Crossing The Netherland we headed over Germany, Poland, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Myanmar and finally Thailand. (That may not be the exact sequence, but GF is working from memory of the pilot’s briefing).

By the way – Thai Airways food is superb.

More later.

Service Disruption

There is likely to be a certain amount of disruption to this blog over the next few weeks. The Gorse Fox will diligently write his entries, but if unsure  of the degree to which he will have internet access. Rest assured that all will be uploaded in the fullness of time.

Bouncing Broadband

Blasted broadband is bouncing on and off. Not sure if it’s the Gorse Fox’s router or BT… but it does claim that that it can’t pick up ADSL every now and again… so suspect it it is the line to the house or the switchboard. Shame, when it’s been so reliable for so long now.

Fixed

Done.

Windows 7 plus: Google Chrome, Google Picasa, OpenOffice, Skype, Evernote and iTunes…bare minimum, but functional.

Reconstruction

Reconstruction of the Gorse Fox’s netbook continues apace (alongside real work). At least it is now able to start up and operate – though it will take quite a while to get it back to a preferred state. GF did take the opportunity to upgrade it to Windows 7 at this juncture… downloading all of the latest drivers from the Samsung web site.

This entry was written from the netbook as a means of checking all was beginning to stabilise.

Rebuild

During Tuesday’s normal day’s work (albeit from home) GF will have to rebuild the Netbook. All attempts of recovery last night came to nothing. Must conclude it is well and truly stuffed. Mea culpa.

Ooops

Gorsefox is not happy. He was clearing up the disk on his little netbook... and managed to destroy the boot menu and hence cannot start the system. Not at all.

Now GF needs to find a way of rebuilding. Pooh!

Winding Down

After the excitement and pressure of last week, the the Gorse Fox has a remarkably quiet day today and tomorrow. This is good as it gives time for the brain cells to stop processing the bid activities of last week, and start looking forward to the forthcoming trip.
One a different subject – the magic little phone – GF was pleased to find a Dropbox client and also FTP servers & clients.
Oh yes, and the PADI Open Water “theory” is now complete, new swimmies are purchased, new shorts are in the bag, Cousteau-cub’s shopping list is all accounted for, and foreign exchange is ready for collection at the airport.

Test 3

This final test concerns the treatment of photographs.

This random photograph of some strange woman gurning seems like a likely candidate for the test.

Does the photo get uploaded correctly? (And where to?) and is it placed correctly in the blog post?

Why is Gorse Fox doing all of this? Well he is assuming that there will be times when he is away that access to the internet is limited or at least inconvenient. He does, however, wish to continue blogging and hopes that he can upload batches of blog posts that were developed off-line and that they will retain their correct date information.

Test 2

Well it looks promising in that GF can store drafts locally (with no connection). Now the question on everyone’s lips is “Does this retain the original publication date and time?” or does that get reset when the file is finally uploaded?

One more test to go. (And yes, it does seem to respect rather than reset the publication dates).

A series of Tests, please bare with the interruption

This is just a test post to see whether Windows Live Writer actually needs to have a connection or whether GF can “stack” posts.

Organised

That’s better. The Gorse Fox is now a little better organised. He has managed to spend the morning re-booking Cousteau-cub’s flights and hotel so that she can meet up with us in Bangkok.  Just as he was finishing that all of the official paperwork for GF & SV’s trip arrived by email. The printer was chuntering away for ages getting everything out on hardcopy.

GF found a web service called Tripit. This seemed to be a good way of collating all of the travel details and sharing them with interested parties. He duly signed up and posted all of the relevant details so that everyone who needs to know has the same information. There’s also an “app” for the phone so that the information is available when you are on the move (though it is probably only useful in your home country, or in emergencies due to the cost of data-roaming on phones).

Shame about the Spurs score at Old Trafford, but at least Man City only managed a draw.

Ooops

Fell asleep on train. Ended up in LA. Now waiting for train back.

Done

It is done. Well and truly. Document finished. Documents formatted. Documents sent.30 seconds to spare.

Cheer goes up.

Office is emptied.

Beer is consumed.

Journey home commenced... and bottled of wine threatened.

BSOD

Did the Gorsefox ever tell you how frustrating he finds some products from Redmond. Since he got out of bed some 31 hours ago, MSWord has crashed and lost updates 3 times and he has also had a "blue screen of death" that lost updates and precious time.

And yes, the Gorsefox does know about and use both autosave and ctrl_S.

Straight through

Well GF and a few hardy colleagues worked straight through the night. Starfleet evidently switch off the heating but not the air conditioning. By five o'clock he was frozen and started to muse on the efficacy of a fire in one of the offices... and maybe some tea.

People are coming back in now and the heating is back on - a degree of comfort returns.

Testing

This is just a test of Blogaway, the Blogger app for the Android phone.

Still, still at it

Getting chilly on deck. Still editing and reviewing. Crew dropping like flies now.

Still at it

Yep - still reviewing and editing.