Blackjack on Sark

We wandered down to the harbour just after breakfast. Though we were early, there was already a queue for the  ferry. We boarded after a few minutes wait and settled down inside - some hardy souls decided to sit on the open prow or stern. The Gorse Fox has learnt from previous trips that it can get chilly in the open after a while. The ferry was pretty full as it left harbour. The sea was like a mill pond. Hardly a ripple disturbed the surface. The ferry headed out and skirted south of Herm and then looped  round the north side of Sark and down to the harbour on the east side.

We disembarked and wandered through the tunnel to the parking area. Sark does not allow motor vehicles, with the exception of tractors. Tractors wait at this parking area with trailers hooked up and seats for passengers on the trailers. The locals refer to these as "toast racks". Once full (32 passengers) the tractors carry you up the hill to the edge of the village. (There is a footpath if you are feeling adventurous - we weren't).

At the village we were greeted by Philip and his Percheron (heavy horse) called Blackjack. Philip and Blackjack would be our guides for the day. We climbed up into the carriage and set off at slow and steady pace. Philip gave us a commentary as we passed through the lanes. He pointed out houses that had famous owners - Dennis Price, the actor, Mervyn Peake, the author, and so forth and told us the historical framework that provides a background to it all.

There are about 400 permanent inhabitants on the Island and it is pretty self-sufficient, growing most of the vegetables it needs and having plenty of cattle, sheep, and pigs on the Island has a ready supply of fresh meat. There is a very nice looking school which caters for children up to GCSE. Currently there are about 30 children in the school! All of the properties are leasehold and the Island is self-governing. Like Guernsey it is not part of the EU, but is part of the Common Travel Area. The local government is by a 28 member parliament.

We passed the prison. The smallest operational prison in the world, apparently. It can hold 2 prisoners and is rarely used. It is right next door to the church... and in the church is a "prisoners' pew". If a prisoner wishes to go to church on Sunday, the constable has to accompany him and use the allocated pew. Philip went on to  say that if he was a prisoner, he would demand to go to church just to irritate the constable.

We found our way to the Pilcher Monument on the west coast, overlooking the Brecqhou Islet. This was a magical spot with views of the reclusive Barclay brothers' domain (Barclay brothers own the Daily and Sunday Telegraph, the Spectator, and the Shop Direct Group). As we watched, a helicopter lifted off and headed towards Guernsey. Clearly they don't slum it on the ferry.

Philip guided Blackjack to pull us back to the crossroads and then south towards Little Sark. We pottered along at a comfortable walking pace, chatting with Philip and waving at cyclists as they passed. We arrived at The Coupee. This is a narrow causeway linking Sark to Little Sark. In the past this was so precarious that in high winds, people would have to crawl across on their hands and knees. Now the causeway has proper protective rails and whilst still challenging for anyone with vertigo, it is quite safe. We  had to dismount from the carriage and allow Philip and Blackjack to cross alone as it is illegal for him to carry passengers across. We walked across and then caught up with our chauffer and carriage at the top of the rise on the south side.

Our next stop was La Sablonerrie. This is a charming little hotel and restaurant in the middle of Little Sark. We took our seats at a table in the shade, but soon realised that was amistake. There was a very slight breeze and it was a bit chilly there. We moved into the sun and that was much better. The menu wasn't extensive but it was more than adequate. There was a fine choice of starters and an excellent set of entrees. There was, in addition, a whole page of lobster dishes. The Silver Vixen plumped for the lobster whilst the Gorse Fox went for a seafood platter. The food was exquisite and Elizabeth, the owner, came round to chat with each of the tables in turn. The Gorse Fox couldn't help but think how well she would get on with his Auntie Margaret - two peas in a pod!

Lunch over, we met with Philip and Blackjack and continued our tour. Again we crossed The Coupee on foot as Blackjack pulled the empty carriage across. We climbed back on board and pottered onwards. We stopped at the Island's only chocolate factory. This was started by and run by the sister of Michael O'Leary who runs RyanAir. Fortunately the chocolate is better than the airline.

With various detours Philip took us across to the gardens of La Seigneurie. This is the home of the Seigneur of Sark. It is an absolute gem of a building surrounded by wonderful gardens. We didn't stay for too long, but were there long enough to get a real feel for the place. From the gardens we headed back to the village and said our goodbyes to Philip and the trusty Blackjack.

Climbing into a "toast rack" we careered back down the hill to the harbour to wait for our ferry. It was pretty full, but we had good (inside) seats so had a very comfortable trip back to SPP.

It has been a brilliant day.